DEVELOPMENT OF MICROEMULSION AND WATER/OIL/WATER MULTIPLE EMULSION CONTAINING BETA-ARBUTIN, LACTIC ACID, AND SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

SILVIA SURINI; NUR MPN NEGORO

doi:10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.FF048

Authors

SILVIA SURINI Laboratory of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology Development, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, Indonesia
NUR MPN NEGORO Laboratory of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology Development, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, Indonesia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.FF048

Keywords:

Beta-arbutin, Lactic acid, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Multiple emulsions, Microemulsions

Abstract

Objective: In addition to lactic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which have whitening effects, beta-arbutin is a safe whitening agent for skin.
Combining these three substances should reduce the concentration of each one in a formula and achieve an optimal whitening effect. In this study,
microemulsions and water/oil/water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were applied to produce a formula containing these whitening agents.
Methods: All the active ingredients were formulated into microemulsions and W/O/W multiple emulsions with different concentrations of Tween 80
and Span 80 as emulsifiers to obtain a stable formula. Twelve-week physical stability studies were performed for every formula at low (4±2°C), room
(28±2°C), and high (40±2°C) temperatures.
Results: The produced microemulsions were transparent with a mean droplet size of 15.50 nm. In addition, the W/O/W multiple emulsions contained
droplets within droplets, which were dispersed in a continuous phase with an inner droplet size of 0.15 μm and an outer droplet size of 0.37 μm. The
W/O/W multiple emulsions showed pseudoplastic thixotropic flow properties. Furthermore, the microemulsions were stable at low (4±2°C) and
room (28±2°C) temperatures, while the W/O/W multiple emulsions were stable at room (28±2°C) and high (40±2°C) temperatures.
Conclusion: It was concluded that the combination of beta-arbutin, lactic acid, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate was suitable for formulating into
microemulsions as well as W/O/W multiple emulsions as whitening cosmetic products.

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