RETINOL STABILITY IN ANTI-AGING FACE SERUM POST-OPENING PERIOD

Authors

  • BAITHA PALANGGATAN MAGGADANI Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok-16424, West Java, Indonesia https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7284-0338
  • RISA RAHMAYATI Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok-16424, West Java, Indonesia
  • TAUFIQ INDRA RUKMANA Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok-16424, West Java, Indonesia https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3113-8291
  • CALLISTA ANDINIE MULYADI Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok-16424, West Java, Indonesia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2024v16i4.50903

Keywords:

Retinol, Face serum, HPLC, Stability

Abstract

Objective: This study aimed to evaluate the stability of retinol in facial serum products under various storage conditions during a specific period after the product is opened. Retinol analysis will be conducted using reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with a UV detector.

Methods: The optimum analytical method in this study was validated according to the ICH Q2 (R1) guideline. The chromatographic separation of retinol was achieved on RP-HPLC isocratic elution method at a wavelength of 324 nm, C18 column, mobile phase of methanol-acetonitrile (90:10), and a flow rate of 0.8 ml/min.

Results: The recovery value for this method was 98.06%-101.6,6%, with RSD ≤ 2%. Limit of Detection (LOD) and limit of Quantification (LOQ) values obtained were 1.1819 µg/ml and 3.9399 µg/ml. Determining retinol levels in face serum samples with variation in storage conditions was conducted on d 0, 7, 14, 21, and 30. The retinol levels in all storage conditions decreased over the 30 d, ranging from 25% to 79%. The highest decrease was observed in samples stored in transparent containers and exposed to light, with a reduction of 79% and an average weekly decrease of 17%.

Conclusion: Stability evaluation of retinol in the serum formulation showed decreased retinol concentration over time during storage. Transferring the product to a secondary container and exposure to light resulted in a higher concentration decrease than storing it in the original bottle.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Herceglija EI. Stability testing of all-trans-retinol in an experimental cosmetic formulation and methanol and methanol containing butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) using reversed-phase HPLC [Degree Project in Chemical Science and Engineering]. [Stockholm]. The Royal Institute of Technology (KTH); 2021.

Roure R, Oddos T, Rossi A, Vial F, Bertin C. Evaluation of the efficacy of a topical cosmetic slimming product combining tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, caffeine, carnitine, forskolin and retinol, in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Dec;33(6):519-26. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00665.x, PMID 21564138.

Kikuchi K, Suetake T, Kumasaka N, Tagami H. Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin a alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study. J Dermatolog Treat. 2009 Jan 1;20(5):276-81. doi: 10.1080/09546630902973987, PMID 20078381.

Shao Y, He T, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Quan T. Molecular basis of retinol anti-aging properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Feb 4;39(1):56-65. doi: 10.1111/ics.12348, PMID 27261203.

Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-7. doi: 10.5114/ada.2019.87443, PMID 31616211.

Kawada A, Konishi N, Momma T, Oiso N, Kawara S. Evaluation of anti‐wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing retinol using the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association. J Dermatol. 2009 Nov 29;36(11):583-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2009.00716.x, PMID 19878390.

Rousselle C. Opinion of the scientific committee on consumer safety. opinion of the scientific committee on consumer safety (SCCS)-final version of the opinion on vitamin a (retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate) in cosmetic products. Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2017 Mar;84:102-4. doi: 10.1016/j.yrtph.2016.11.017.

Jentzsch A, Aikens P. RetiSTARTM for cosmetic formulations. In: Delivery system handbook for personal care and cosmetic products. Elsevier; 2005. p. 861-71.

Temova Rakusa Z, Skufca P, Kristl A, Roskar R. Quality control of retinoids in commercial cosmetic products. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Apr 16;20(4):1166-75. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13686, PMID 32813932.

Sende IF, Yunianto EP, Kosmetik TB. Share in jar. Ilegal Media Daring Eruditio Indones J Food Drug Saf. 2021 Jul 19;1(1):38-47.

Vallez Gomis V, Carchano Olcina S, Azorin C, Benede JL, Chisvert A, Salvador A. Simultaneous quantification of vitamin a and derivatives in cosmetic products by liquid chromatography with ultraviolet detection. Separations. 2022 Feb 1;9(2):40. doi: 10.3390/separations9020040.

Harmita. Analisis fisikokimia: kromatografi. Vol. 2. Jakarta: Penerbit Buku Kedokteran EGC; 2015.

Borman P, Elder D. Q2(R1) validation of analytical procedures. ICH quality guidelines. Wiley; 2017. p. 127-66.

EMEA. Q2 R1 Validation of Analytical procedures. 2018;2:127-66.

Indonesia Ministry of Health. Farmakope Indonesia edisi VI. Jakarta: Indonesia Ministry of Health; 2020.

Temova Rakusa Z, Skufca P, Kristl A, Roskar R. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jul 2;20(7):2350-8. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13852, PMID 33206444.

Carlotti ME, Rossatto V, Gallarate M. Vitamin A and vitamin A palmitate stability over time and under UVA and UVB radiation. Int J Pharm. 2002 Jun;240(1-2):85-94. doi: 10.1016/s0378-5173(02)00128-x, PMID 12062504.

Zasada M, Budzisz E, Erkiert Polguj A. A clinical anti-aging comparative study of 0.3 and 0.5% retinol serums: a clinically controlled trial. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2020;33(2):102-16. doi: 10.1159/000508168, PMID 32428912.

Published

07-07-2024

How to Cite

MAGGADANI, B. P., RAHMAYATI, R., RUKMANA, T. I., & MULYADI, C. A. (2024). RETINOL STABILITY IN ANTI-AGING FACE SERUM POST-OPENING PERIOD. International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, 16(4), 108–113. https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2024v16i4.50903

Issue

Section

Original Article(s)

Most read articles by the same author(s)

1 2 > >>