FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF COSMETIC FOUNDATION USING EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE AS A SUN PROTECTION

Authors

  • EFFIONORA ANWAR Laboratory of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology Development, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok 16424, West Java, Indonesia
  • SHIFA RIZKAMIARTY Laboratory of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology Development, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Indonesia, Depok 16424, West Java, Indonesia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.FF029

Keywords:

Epigallocatechin gallate, Foundation, Irritation test, Sun protection factor

Abstract

Objective: The objective of the study was to obtain a lotion foundation using epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) as an active ingredient designed with a
sun protection factor (SPF) value around 30 that can effectively protect facial skin from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and that is safe to use.
Methods: In this study, we determine SPF value using UV–visible spectrophotometry at a wavelength between 290 and 320 nm. The preparation
formula of the foundation was made with an EGCG concentration of 0.4%, a concentration which can yield the desired SPF value of about 30. Physical
stability was performed at low (4±2°C), ambient (25±2°C), and high (40±2°C) temperatures; cycling and centrifugation tests were also conducted.
Safety was evaluated by eye irritation test using hen’s egg test on chorioallantois method and skin irritation test using the Draize and patch tests
method.
Results: The SPF values of 0.04% EGCG and lotion foundation containing 0.4% EGCG were 31.02±0.72 and 33.20±0.59, respectively. The results of
cycling and centrifugal tests indicated that lotion foundation showed an absence of crystals and lack of any phase separation between oil and water
phases. The physical stability test showed no significant changes for all parameters. Safety tests resulted in neither skin nor eye irritation.
Conclusion: The EGCG foundation developed was physically stable with a good appearance and did not irritate the skin or eyes thus are safe to use
also can effectively protect skin against UVR exposure.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

1. Li YH, Wu Y, Wei HC, Xu YY, Jia LL, Chen J, et al. Protective effects
of green tea extracts on photoaging and photommunosuppression. Skin
Res Technol 2009;15:338-45.
2. Avadhani KS, Manikkath J, Tiwari M, Chandrasekhar M, Godavarthi A,
Vidya SM, et al. Skin delivery of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG)
and hyaluronic acid loaded nano-transfersomes for antioxidant and
anti-aging effects in UV radiation induced skin damage. Drug Deliv
2017;24:61-74.
Table 4: Skin irritation test results
Group Hour Rabbit 1 Rabbit 2 Rabbit 3 PII
Left Right Left Right Left Right
E U E U E U E U E U E U
Sample (foundation lotion EGCG) 24 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.0
48 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
72 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Control (base) 24 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
48 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
72 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
E: Erythema, U: Edema; PII: Primary irritation index, EGCG: Epigallocatechin gallate
Table 5: Irritation score values on CAM following test product
use
Group Irritation score
CAM 1 CAM 2 CAM 3 CAM 4 Average
Negative control 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Positive control 10.67 5.00 5.00 11.28 7.97
EGCG foundation
lotion
3.80 3.82 3.86 3.80 3.82
EGCG: Epigallocatechin gallate, CAM: Chorioallantois method
3. Nohynek GJ, Schaefer H. Benefit and risk of organic ultraviolet filters.
Regul Toxicol Pharmacol 2001;33:285-99.
4. Wolf R, Wolf D, Morganti P, Ruocco V. Sunscreens. J. Clinic Dermatol
2001;19:452-9.
5. Deep KC, Saraf S. Photochemoprotective activity of alcoholic extract
of Camellia sinensis. Int J Pharmacol 2011;3:400-4.
6. Dutra EA, Oliveira DA, Kedor H, Santoro MI. Determination of sun
protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens by ultraviolet spectrophotometry.
Braz J Pharm Sci 2004;3:381-5.
7. Duma N. Learn about the stability and irritation effects of foundation
lotion formulated with oleum cocoa substitution. Ind Hasil Perkebunan
2014;1:9-17.
8. Scalia S, Marchetti N, Bianchi A. Comparative evaluation of different
co-antioxidants on the photochemical- and functional-stability of
epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical creams exposed to simulated
sunlight. Molecules 2013;18:574-87.
9. Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validations of Alternative
Methods. ICCVAM-Recommended Test Method Protocol: Hen’s Egg
Test - Chorioallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM) Test Method; 2010.
10. Cazedey EC, Carvalho FC, Fiorentino FA, Gremiao MP, Salgado HR.
Corositex®, BCOP and HET-CAM as alternative methods to animal
experimentation. Braz J Pharm Sci 2009;4:759-66.
11. OyetakinWhite P, Tribout H, Baron E. Protective mechanisms of green
tea polyphenols in skin. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2012;2012:1-8.
12. Darmawan DD. Formulation of Phytosome Gel Preparation of Green
Tea Leaf Extract (Camellia sinensis L. Kuntze) and in vitro Penetration
test using Franz Diffusion Cells. Depok: Universitas Indonesia; 2016.
13. Hu C, Kitts DD. Evaluation of antioxidant activity of epigallocatechin
gallate in biphasic model systems in vitro. Mol Cell Biochem
2001;218:147-55.
14. Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K, Matsui M, Katiyar S, Mukhtar H.
Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea
polyphenols. J Am Acad Dermatol 2001;44:425-32.
15. Chou J, Robinson T, Doan H. Rapid comparison of UVB absorption
effectiveness of various sunscreens by UV-Vis spectroscopy. J Anal
Bioanal Tech 2017;8 Suppl 2:355
16. Imam S, Azhar I, Mahmood ZA. In-vitro evaluation of sun protection
factor of a cream formulation prepared from extracts of Musa
accuminata (L.), Psidium guava (L.) and Pyrus communis (L.). Asian J
Pharm Clin Res 2015;8:234-7.
17. Sinko JP. Martin’s Physical Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences:
Physical Chemical and Biopharmaceutical Principles in the
Pharmaceutical Sciences. 6th ed. Philadelphia, PA: Lippincott Williams
& Wilkins; 2011.
18. Vayalil PK, Elmets CA, Katiyar SK. Treatment of green tea polyphenols
in hydrophilic cream prevents UVB-induced oxidation of lipids and
proteins, depletion of antioxidant enzymes and phosphorylation
of MAPK proteins in SKH-1 hairless mouse skin. Carcinogenesis
2003;24:927-36.
19. Widyaningrum N, Fudholi A, Sudarsono SS, Setyowati E. Stability of
epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) from green tea (Camellia sinensis)
and its antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC
35984 and Propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919. Asian J Biol Sci
2015;2:93-101.
20. Djajadisastra J.Cosmetic Stability. Jakarta: Presented in Indonesian
Cosmetic Association (HIKI); 2004.
21. Jufri M, Amelia L, Munim A. Hair growth activity and safety test of
ethosomal gel ethyl acetate fraction of nothopanax leaves (Nothopanax
scutellarium merr.). Asian J Pharm Clin Res 2017;10:134-8.

Published

23-03-2020

How to Cite

ANWAR, E., & RIZKAMIARTY, S. (2020). FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF COSMETIC FOUNDATION USING EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE AS A SUN PROTECTION. International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, 12(1), 130–134. https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2020.v12s1.FF029

Issue

Section

Original Article(s)

Most read articles by the same author(s)

1 2 > >>